The Carnivore Carnival – Ramzan Walk in Old Delhi

If you have been born and brought up in Delhi, chances are that the memories of evenings spent with family at the melas or carnivals of the “pre-mall” days, occupy a very important part of your childhood nostalgia. Remember the old feeling when your feet are screaming for a break from all the walking – but instead your eyes, filled with excitement, refuse to listen, and keep on pulling you towards the next attraction?? That was exactly how I was feeling today at Jama Masjid, and all the joy-rides were for my taste-buds.
Our gang of FED’s got together at the Chawri Bazaar metro station, and we started walking through the small eateries mainly catering to the Chawri Bazaar businessmen and the local residents. Until we reached the Jama Masjid area, the fare was only vegetarian, and rightly so, because had we gone straight to the other part, our vegetarian friends would have run away at the very beginning.
My narration starts forms the part 2 of our FED walk, or as I like to call it “The Carnivore Carnival”.
Ramzan or Ramadan is the Islamic month of fasting, during which, participating Muslims strictly refrain from eating food and even water during the daylight hours. It is only after sunset that they are allowed to take their first sip of water of the day. The fast breaking meal of the day is known as Iftar, which traditionally starts with the ceremonial eating of three dates, just as Prophet Muhammad used to do.
We were at the area called Matia Mahal which is the lane leading in towards the market opposite gate no: 1 of the Jama Masjid entrance. And since It is the holy month of Ramzan, we were there to join in on the celebrations. When we entered the lane, we couldn’t help being overwhelmed by the festive energy of the place. The joyful spirit instantly overpowers as you are drawn into the labyrinth of lights, colors, and best of all the succulent aroma of wonderful food.
Our first halt was at a biryani vendor, he had two different types of biryanis, the Chicken and beef (or as they called it “Bade ki Biryani”). Both of them tasted nice as they were cooked very well. But I must admit that this guy’s biryani was not the best one of the evening.
Twenty steps further into the lane was a grilled chicken outlet, I think its name was Aslam Chicken Corner. This guy is basically sitting on the street with a huge tawa, at-least 3 ft in diameter, full of marinated chicken breast pieces, and a small grill besides it. The Chicken was juicy and simply amazing, even though it was drenched in yellow butter, the taste was perfectly balanced with all the spices used in marinating it. At Rs. 65 for a skewer with 7 pieces it was just awesome.


Here, I met a few local youth, (who for some reason were convinced that I was from London and not Delhi ??) I asked one of them about his favorite food in the lane and he recommended a Chicken Biryani place and pointed out to the outlet. I’m glad I followed the dude’s advice.
The biryani here was out-standing, much better than the earlier place, it was cooked to perfection with each individual strand perfectly separated, and the aroma was a flawless melody of spices. The quality of rice they used was nothing like what I have ever seen before, each grain was at least half an inch long. The guy sitting at the Deg (the biryani vessel) told me that only a very special type of rice will make the biryani taste this good. This guy even had us try some of his Korma which was again great. I love mixing a little korma with my biryani.
 Also, adjoining this place was an outlet making Rotis and Sheermals. We were tempted to try the sheermal and they were superb. It is a flat bread which is mildly sweet and only slightly glazed and cooked in a tandoor. They too would have been a perfect accompaniment with the Korma.
All the food had me craving for a nice cool drink, and at that moment had I wished for something else, it would definitely have been granted. Just a couple of shops down the lane I saw something spectacular. This shop had a giant soda vending machine which had every flavor imaginable on offer. They had at least 15 different varieties of soda ranging from Leeche to Mango, Blueberry to Strawberry, you name it, and the taste was surprisingly commendable. We guys went crazy with delight. Seriously, I wasn’t kidding about the Mela part.
Up next I met the happiest food vendor I’ve seen in my whole life. This guy (who by the way had a striking resemblance with the actor Randeep Hooda.. see pic) was just so jubilant. He served us with an energy that was both entertaining and inspiring with a smile as big as the old city, and this was besides the fact that he was super-busy. He was selling this unique sharbat made with water, milk, Roohafza plus little chunks of watermelon added in the mix. It was only mildly sweet, delicious and totally refreshing.
Right next to this jolly fellow was a guy selling different curries out of a cart, now, how often do you get to see stuff like that? We asked him to give us a plate each of all his non-veg preparations. He set up a small table for us and sent us Hari Mirch Keema, Magaz (Brain) Curry, Mutton Korma, Dal Meat and Bade Ka Salan. We all had our favorites, mine was the Korma but the Magaz was the first one to be wiped off.

You have to pardon me for not giving you any names as these places are known more by their food and location. Most of them have been sitting at the same place selling the same food for decades without choosing any name for their outlet. In order to find them all you need to do is start walking into the lane and go on exploring.

To finish off, we decided to culminate the evening at the outlet which has made the Jama Masjid area food famous all over the world, we ended up at Karim’s. This place is an institution in itself. To reach there we had to walk back to the entrance of the lane where the very first Karim’s is located. It opened originally in the year 1918 (I think) and they have been putting smiles of people’s faces ever since.

We are all too familiar with Karim’s food, as any foodie worth his salt would be, so we just ordered a few of our favorites. In fact, I doubt if the majority of their visitors even look at their Menu card before ordering.

We had their Burra Kebabs, Nihari, Keema and Seekh Kababs. I even wanted to have the Raan which is the roasted whole leg of the goat but it was sold out, sadly.

The Burra is their most famous and popular preparation. It is made of pieces of goat meat marinated in their secret mix of spices and then slow cooked in the tandoor. The meat is soft and it melts in the mouth within a few bites, perfect. I could eat it all day.

The Nihari is again a goat meat preparation and is more popular during Ramzan. The gravy is very rich and creamy, again with a lot of spices added to create Magic. We finished off with the famous Phirni which is their version of kheer.

The food is no doubt very heavy with all the spices and Ghee, but, I feel, that is the essence of Mughlai food. After eating so much I’m glad I walked all the way back till New Delhi railway station, where I had parked.

When it comes to working with red meat, the Muslim chefs have definitely written the book on the subject. It will always be their art. I just hope their younger generation takes on the reins so we can continue savoring the delights as their art of cooking is passed on from generation to generation.
One last word on the prices. Karim’s by all standards is priced like any other mid-priced restaurant, Meal for two between Rs. 600 to Rs. 800 range. But the outlets outside on the street are all in the very affordable category, dishes range from Rs. 50 – Rs. 75 on average, and I reckon one can have a royal feast for well under Rs. 200.

Going to Jama Masjid for food is always joyful, but being there during Ramzan, is unlike any regular experience. The positivity, jubilation and the merriment that is so prevalent, just multiplies the flavor of the food fiesta.

Tunday Kababi – From Lucknow to Delhi, with love…

I have always believed food at Old Delhi tastes much better when I’m either high or stoned, and last night it was double whammy. Last Friday me, Saurabh (who lost his phone) & Toshik (who gained some pounds and happiness) started on a journey which was nothing short of a Hangover + Kumar and Harold go to White Castle scenario, and finally we reached our Mecca – Tunday Kababi, Daryaganj.

Tunday Kababi, from outside

The sight (not the interiors) as you enter will surely make you salivate and tempt you beyond no return and all 3 of us (carnivore souls) are no immortals to not to give into the succumbing aromas of changezi chicken on XL Tawa, tunday kebabs on XXL Tawa and qormas in gigantic handis.

Chicken Changezi on a Giant Tawa

It was a packed Friday (Jumma) night and 10.30pm didn’t seem late for all the hordes around us waiting and sweating (no AC) patiently for their food. No server turned up on our table for 5mins (which seemed like 50) and we sweet talked one of them to please us to get pleased (reads corny ;))

The real deal – Legends in the making

Our order seemed big (we aren’t the Man Vs Food type eaters) to start with, 4 plate (each plate has 4 pieces) mutton kababs + 4 mughlai paranthas(size of a roomali roti), but we forgot we were on a different high today.

I must admit the sweet talk worked as our server got the order within minutes of our ordering, which earned us a lot of jealous stares. They were polished within secondss (no kidding) I don’t want to say the kababs are melt in your mouth (its clichéd) infact its melt in your finger category. If there is a rating to be awarded both scored a 5 on 5 stars all the way (seriously no words will ever justice their taste – its a eat it to believe it tale). The mughlai paranthas are very similar to their south cousins the malabari porotas – crispy and layeri.

We ordered another round of same order along with Chicken Biryani, Butter Chicken and Chicken Curry. Since it was late, about closing time (11.30p.m. they are mostly sold off on weekends) butter chicken and chicken curry were sold out, so we settled with biryani and chicken qorma. You get 3 portion sizes – quarter, half and full which in terms of portion sizes, can easily be translated to quarter – 1-2 persons, half – 2-3 persons and full – 4+. The qorma didn’t score too high but the pieces had the perfect texture, same as my previous visit and this is quiet commendable as even some of the high brow restaurants in Delhi fail to maintain a consistency.

The biryani ‘its different’ its not your usual ‘old Delhi style’ biryani. The rice was juicy and full of flavour, the pieces were spiced well. So yes, this one also is a must try.

Before we could realise we had cleaned 8 plates of kababs (32 pieces) + 10 paranthas + half biryani + half qorma, it reads BIG but surprisingly none of us felt heavy after this meal. The prices are modest, Tunday Kebabs at Rs.20 per piece, Mughlai Parantha at Rs.10 per piece, Biryani and Qorma, both were half plate for Rs.100 and full for Rs. 200.

All of us are going back to Tunday Kababi preferably on a week day and early on time to sample the full menu.

The place is not your usual restaurant set-up, the interiors aren’t high from any standards and its in an area where some Delhites think twice before venturing – but it matters where it should – FOOD.

All carnivores – needles to say its a must visit and sample. Sadly for the veggies, except the phirni everything is non-vegetarian at this joint.

Our trip (read: food trip) wasn’t over yet, we sampled some delightful stuff – Gundi (yes thats the name) Paan from the paan joint next to Odeon (now Big Odeon) Cinema at Connaught Place. These paans cost Rs. 20, are four small leaf rolls (joint like) filled with gulkand and regular paan spices and laced with chandan paste and have a super ‘cool’ after taste.

Gundi Paan

Disclaimer: With this post I’m not encouraging drinking or smoking 🙂 – the sole intention is to drive you to divinity – Tunday Kababi, 3778, Autar Bhavan, Main Road, Near Jama Masjid, Daryaganj, Delhi. Ph.: 9871595054

Drunk and non-tempting photography courtesy _TA and associates 

PS : You might read their name written as Tundey Kebab or Tund Kebabs elsewhere as well.